
All-Fish Korean BBQ at Small's: A Bold Reinvention of Fire and Fat
by Matthew Lu
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At Small's, Chef Bjorn Shen and his team have flipped the script on Korean BBQ. Instead of beef and pork, this seven-seat chef’s counter is grilling up fish cuts so rich and fatty they could pass for wagyu.
Straight up, you’re hit with six banchan and a bowl of jumeokbap (Korean rice balls). Gloves on, mix it up, shape it however you want—no rules, just vibes. Solid way to get into it.
First course? Cold noodles. Creamy, silky, and packed with umami, thanks to that nori on top. Clean, simple, banging start.
Korean pancakes usually come flat, but here? They’re in ball form. Grilled oyster pancake with a little pickled radish for that punch of acidity. Tasty as hell—gave off COTE Steakhouse crispy oyster pancake vibes.
Then came the BBQ freshwater eel, straight off the binchotan. Smoky, rich, and an absolute banger with the banchan. Best way to eat it? Wrap it in nori with pickled ginger, wasabi, and rice—onigiri-style. Perfect bite.
Next up: baby cuttlefish, then "pork of the sea" (you already know that’s gonna slap), and finally, the real MVP—the secret tuna cut (forehead). Hands down, best thing we’ve eaten this year.
Wrapped it up with jjigae to reset the palate, then fizzy lychees and banana milk ice cream to send it home.
The whole experience? Just pure fun. No stiff, overthought dining—just getting stuck in, eating good food, and enjoying the moment.
The experience is primal—open flame, rendered fat, crispy skin, and deep umami.
Think tuna jaw, eel with a crackling crust, and neck fillets that mimic the indulgence of a well-marbled steak. The interplay of smoke, char, and house-made sauces delivers an unexpected yet deeply familiar satisfaction.
It’s proof that seafood, when treated with this level of precision, can hold its own in the world of fire and fat.
For those lucky enough to snag a seat, Small's isn’t just serving fish—it’s redefining it.